AKA how to forfeit your deposit and ruin your favorite clothes all at the same time.
I’m using a 2 quart sauce pan (about 80% full of tap water), on a small electric burner turned on to the lowest setting, and with a small metal strainer I got at goodwill for $3. Water is a nice 135 ish F or about 57 C. Any hotter and you risk deforming the plastic, but you should be able to go up to 80 C or 172 F before the plastic starts deforming. Don’t quote me on that though.
The clear parts, e.g. GBA SP shell and game shell, were dyed for about 30-60 seconds and about three minutes respectively. The dark game shell was in the stew for over 20 minutes and I don’t think it’s getting any darker. Opaque parts seemed to take the dye somewhat inconsistently and had some blotching. This may be due to defects in the plastic during the original flow when they were injection molded, or, more likely, because I did not stir the stew frequently enough.
Aftermarket parts seem to take dye better than OEM parts but it all seems pretty hit and miss except for the clear stuff.
This is the specific dye I used:
Sorry about the price, I was thinking of RIT dye when I mentioned it in the video. I did actually pay a little over $6 USD for this stuff. But it does work pretty damn nice. The SP shell came out MINT. If someone out there tries this out and picks up the turquoise dye, I’m going to need you to share some pics.
Any tips or recommendations? I’m all ears. I thought this was pretty fun to try out but I’d like to get some more consistent results for the buttons.
Nguồn: https://germain-isern.com/
Xem thêm bài viết khác: https://germain-isern.com/game/
You should be cleaning all parts thoroughly, to avoid splotches, and use gloves. (Alcohol and scrubbing) Any finger oils and grime will prevent even dye retaining.
Also… you should stir it up more often.
How about using automotive vinyl dye? or sanding the parts then using an adhesion promoter so the dye can stick? this is what Ive found after searching for so many hours around the web. Also you need to clean the parts to remove any dirt or oil from it. I think that's one of the reasons why the battery cover came out like that with some darker spots. They look like oily fingerprint spots. Notice how the untouched part inside came out clean and great.
Aye Makho. Have you considered an acetone rit dye mix?
Good work. Very interesting to see the different plastics reaction to the dye and time in the dye.
On the battery case, my guess would be even though it was clean, there may have been some trace oils if it was used on an actual played system. Perhaps some brake cleaner and scotch brite would have gotten it to a more uniform coloring. That would also be my suggestion for the "clear" coat on the original DS shell, to scuff it up with scotch brite hopefully without cutting through the writing since it would still be cool to have the OEM writing on it.
Good work as always, appreciate the video!
Thanks for this, now I dont have to YOLO dunk my parts
7:36 assume away.
The title killed me, LOL
Cooking with makho.
Oh no… the shells dyed… 🤭
Might try and do something similar to my Japanese green cart but idk